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Journal

Notes on materials, method, and the economics of an industry that would rather not discuss them. Written by the people who do the blending.

What orris actually costs

LatestMaterials6 min

What orris actually costs

Five years from rhizome to butter, and roughly fifty thousand pounds a kilo. A look at why the most expensive material in perfumery is a root nobody would call beautiful.

28 August 2026

More from the journal

The markup nobody mentions

The trade8 min

The markup nobody mentions

A £120 designer bottle contains around £4 of juice. Here is where the rest of it goes, and why we decided not to play that game.

14 August 2026

Naturals are not automatically better

Materials7 min

Naturals are not automatically better

Synthetic musks do not require the animal. Synthetic sandalwood does not require the forest. The natural-versus-synthetic argument is mostly marketing, in both directions.

31 July 2026

How to test a fragrance properly

Wearing it5 min

How to test a fragrance properly

Not on paper, not in a shop, and not for ten minutes. What you smell in the first quarter of an hour has almost nothing to do with what you will wear all day.

17 July 2026

Why our batches vary

Method4 min

Why our batches vary

A harvest of rose absolute is not the same twice. We could blend that difference away. We have chosen not to, and here is the reasoning.

3 July 2026

Sillage is not a measure of quality

Wearing it5 min

Sillage is not a measure of quality

The fragrances people compliment most are rarely the loudest. A short defence of scents that stay close to the skin.

19 June 2026

One a month, at most

New journal entries and the occasional release. No offers, because we do not run them.